Tree Planting Guide

Most trees are purchased as either container grown (in plastic pots), or as balled and burlapped. Each has specific planting instructions as to how the root ball is treated in preparation for planting. All other planting recommendations apply in each situation.

Begin by selecting the appropriate tree for the intended location. Before planting your tree, will it have room to grow? Consider its full-grown size. Correct placement is critical for energy efficiency and low maintenance. Will its location provide you with the benefits you desire?

Avoid planting under utility lines. Be sure to call 811 for underground utility locations.

Dig the planting hole at least 1 1/2-2 times as wide as the root ball. Wider is always better. Dig no deeper than the distance from the bottom of the root ball to the first roots that flare away from the trunk at the top of the root ball. We refer to this as the root or trunk flare. Use a tarp to place the soil you remove from the hole. Prepare this soil for backfilling by breaking it up as much as you can. Break up all clumps. Doing so will help avoid air pockets and provide good contact with the roots.

Prune to remove any broken or problematic branches. Keep pruning to a minimum.

Trees in a plastic container need to be carefully removed and the root flare identified and exposed. If the root ball is not pot bound, lightly scruff up the sides of the root ball before placing it in the hole. Root flare should be at grade or at ground level.

If the root ball is pot bound with a mass of roots circling the root ball, the root ball needs to be box cut. Box cutting is done with a long blade pruning saw. First cut about 1 inch off the bottom of the root ball. Next cut down the 4 sides, cutting ¾ to 1 inch into the root ball. If there are larger roots circling the trunk or top of the root ball, they need to be removed as well. This boxing process seems harsh and harmful, but it is not. Set the tree in the hole with the root flare a grade. Before backfilling, make sure the tree is straight and the lower branches are oriented in a good direction.

Special Considerations for Balled and Burlapped Trees

Balled and burlapped trees need to be prepared by first cutting the twine and burlap from around the top of the root ball. This will allow you to locate and expose the root or trunk flare to gauge your planting hole depth. Next, with the tree lying down, cut and remove the bottom ring of wire from the wire basket with a strong wire cutter. Next stand the tree up again, lifting it by the upper loops of the basket, and place it in the hole. Hay hooks work well for this. Once the tree is at the right depth and orientation, cut the wire basket from top to bottom, spread it open and remove it. If the root ball has remained solid, carefully cut the burlap around the bottom and up the side so it can be removed before backfilling. If the root ball seems to be breaking apart, backfill 1/3 of the way with loose pulverized soil. Firm it around the root ball.

Then cut around the remaining exposed burlap and up the side, removing it from the hole.

Finish back filling and firming the soil around the root ball.

Note: It is generally not recommended to amend the backfill soil with peat moss, compost or a looser soil mix.

Once backfilling is complete, slowly water the tree, ensuring the whole root ball gets wet. This may require 5-10 gallons of water.

Fertilizing is not required until the following growing season.

Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, around the base of the tree. Cover the area just excavated for the planting. Do not pile mulch up against the tree trunk.

Stake the tree only if necessary. Most container grown and balled and burlapped trees do not require staking unless the root ball broke apart or was planted in a windy location.

If deer are known to frequent your area, protect the trunk with a tree guard or protective wrap.